Favorite spot
It's giving travel blog, but what can I say? I'm an American tourist!
Everyone was already seated for dinner when I walked up to the table. Alessandra greeted me.
Ernesto gave me this look, and I realized for the first time that they might wonder where I go every afternoon. For me, it’s just “Ciao!” and I’m out the door. I tried to picture what they imagined.
I don’t mean to feed the mystery, but I’m embarrassed to share the truth, which is perfectly innocent. I walk to town every day to draw and write, often in the cafe I’m in now. I can get a pisco sour or a glass of wine for cheap, and if I’m short on cash the owner lets me pay the next day. Plus, I’ve befriended the cafe cat.
Most days, I wander the streets, stopping every now and then to draw. I love the architecture of Valparaiso — it’s the reason why I extended my stay here in the first place. The whole city is built into the hillside, with impossibly steep stairs climbing up toward houses perched every which way. Before the Panama Canal was built in 1914, Valparaiso was one of the most important port cities of South America.1 Wealthy Europeans built big houses here, and although many have fallen into disrepair, they’re still beautiful, even more so with their imperfections. I love the contrast of 19th and 20th century architecture with modern day street art, which is a long-standing tradition here.
In spite of Pinochet’s military dictatorship from 1973-1990, which made street art punishable by torture or death, artists continued to paint the city’s walls with messages of hope and the end of the military regime. Today, the local government has legalized street art to celebrate freedom of expression.2
My daily route takes me through my favorite spot, an overlook where my friends and I first stayed a month ago. If I sit outside our old Airbnb I can still get wifi. There’s stone benches covered in mosaics that look out onto the city and ocean, and stairs where people usually hang out. Sometimes I walk over just to watch the sunset.
Yesterday, I was drawing at my spot when someone asked for a grinder. I didn’t have one, but I shared some weed with him and his friend, a German tourist. We talked a bit about the German’s falling out with a girl from their hostel.
As I was leaving, I used the bathroom at their hostel, which was right nearby. The girl working was so friendly, and I’d seen her before — she sometimes juggles bowling pins by the stairs.
And just like that, my favorite spot became a treasured hideaway, rich in resources. I can go to the bathroom, access wifi, and hang with people — all for free!
Go alisa!! I loved this one :) I like imagining you’re out day drinking with your secret lover. 🫶🏼